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Dyeing first, and everything that sits either side of it.

Most customers come to LUMA for knit dyeing. Knitting, raising, finishing, printing, lab dip, testing and materials sit alongside it, so a fabric program runs as one job instead of being chased across five suppliers.

Fabric Processing

Dyeing and the wet processing around it

The core of the business. Most customers start here and stay for the rest.

Knit Dyeing

Knit fabric dyed to the approved shade in tube and open width, including lycra blends. The lot is kept in one batch wherever the quantity allows, because splitting a lot to gain a day is where shade variation starts and shade variation is what an inspector writes up.

  • Tube dyeing, with dia and GSM set at finishing
  • Open width where the construction or the finish calls for it
  • Lycra and elastane blends, dyed and set to hold recovery
  • Shade to your standard, the buyer nominated swatch or a Pantone

Raising And Brushing

Fleece and brushed constructions raised to the pile and hand feel approved on the sample. Two and three thread fleece, brushed one side or both. Fewer suppliers take raising than take plain dyeing, so bring a winter program to us early rather than late.

  • Two and three thread fleece, one side or both
  • Pile and hand feel matched to the approved sample
  • Run with the dyeing and finishing on one order

Finishing

Tube is squeezed, dried and compacted. Open width is slit, stentered and compacted. Dia or width, finished GSM, shrinkage and spirality are all set here against your specification. A correctly dyed fabric is still commonly lost at this stage, which is why it is not treated as the easy part.

  • Dia or width and finished GSM to specification
  • Shrinkage and spirality set, not left to chance
  • Rolls returned packed for your cutting section

Printing

All over print and pigment work on knit, taken alongside the dyeing rather than sent out halfway through the program. Send the artwork, the repeat and the placement with your inquiry, and a strike off is submitted before bulk runs.

  • All over print and pigment print on knit
  • Strike off submitted and approved before bulk
  • Handled on the same order as the dyeing

Washing

Garment washing arranged where a program calls for it. Tell us the effect you are after and the buyer standard it has to meet when you inquire, rather than assuming it sits outside what we take on.

  • Available on request as part of a program
  • Effect and buyer standard confirmed before anything runs

Fabric Production

Grey fabric to your count and dia

Taking knitting together with dyeing shortens the program and puts the whole fabric in one place.

Knitting

Grey fabric knitted to your construction, count, dia and GSM, ready to go straight into dyeing. One company answers for the fabric from yarn to finished roll, which removes the usual argument about whether a fault came from knitting or from dyeing.

  • Single jersey, sinker, pique, lacoste, interlock, rib, fleece, terry
  • Count, dia and GSM to your specification
  • Grey checked on the 4-point system before batching

Development And Quality

Getting it approved, and proving it

Approvals are where a fabric program is usually lost. This is the part we compete hardest on.

Lab Dip And Sampling

Lab dips submitted quickly against your standard, the buyer nominated swatch or a Pantone reference, and revised until they are signed off. Where the approval sits with your buying house we submit to them directly and keep your merchandiser copied.

  • Prompt submission and fast resubmission
  • Approved reference held against the order
  • Reorders matched back to the original approval

Fabric Testing

The checks that decide whether a lot ships: shrinkage and spirality, finished GSM and dia, colour fastness to wash, rubbing, perspiration and light, and pilling, with 4-point inspection on the roll. Where your buyer requires a third party report from an accredited laboratory, we arrange it and manage the submission with you.

  • Shrinkage, spirality, GSM and dia recorded
  • Fastness to wash, rubbing, perspiration and light
  • 4-point inspection and a shade band before release
  • Accredited third party reports arranged when a buyer requires them

Materials Supply

Yarn, dyes and chemicals

Supplied against a confirmed requirement, to the compliance standard your buyer works to.

Yarn

Yarn supplied against your order in the count and blend your construction needs. Tell us the count, the blend, the quantity and the date it has to be on the knitting floor.

  • Combed and carded, in the counts knit programs run on
  • Cotton, CVC, PC, viscose and melange
  • Supplied against a confirmed order

Dyes And Chemicals

Dyestuff and textile auxiliaries for factories running their own dyeing. An export factory is audited on what goes into the bath, so the compliance standard your buyer works to is where the conversation starts and not a detail at the end of it.

  • Dyestuff and auxiliaries for knit wet processing
  • Supplied to the compliance standard your buyer requires
  • Ask with the buyer requirement stated up front

Fabrics

What we work with

Knit fabric for the export trade. If your construction is not listed, ask, because this is what comes through most often rather than a limit.

Single Jersey
Plain, sinker, slub, and with lycra
Pique And Lacoste
Polo body fabric
Interlock
Including interlock derivatives
Rib
1x1, 2x2, and lycra rib
Fleece
Two and three thread, brushed or plain
Terry
French terry and loop terry

Anything Else

Ask rather than assume it is out of scope

Garment work rarely arrives as one clean job. Where a requirement sits next to something we already handle for you, ask. If we can do it properly we will say so, and if we cannot we will say that instead of taking the order and finding out halfway through.

Tell us what the order is.

Construction, dia or width, GSM, count, quantity per shade and your delivery date. That is enough for a rate per kg and a turnaround.

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